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Chubasco Design 255
This is one of the grand dames of the design archives. Built by Wilmington Boat Works of California for William L. Stewart she was launched in 1939. Through two owners shes been a major player in the Southern California racing scene her whole life. Her race record is extensive.
This picture is worth a thousand words. Inscribed on the back of this photograph are the words "Chubasco leading Baruna and Bolero across the finish line in San Fransisco", 1960.
Here are the plans.
In 1966 "Chubby" as she is affectionately known, underwent a major refit and was converted from a yawl to a sloop.
LOA 67-3"
LWL 46-6"
Beam 13-10"
Draft 9-2"
Displacement 73,000 lbs
Sail Area 2,051 sq ft
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Design 1618 Seafarer Sailmaster 45
This design started life as the Seafarer 45, marketed by Seafarer Fiberglass Yachts with offices in New York City on 42nd Street, about 2 blocks from where we are now. The yachts were built in Holland at yards such as the G. de Vries Lentsch yard of Amsterdam. Somewhere along the way it seems Seafarer went out of business and a new marketing firm called Sailmaster, Inc. of Shelter Island, New York took over. The boats were then built exclusively at the N.V. Werf Gusto Shipbuilder yard also of Holland.
The boats enjoy a good following and have a solid reputation.
Here are the plans.
LOA 45-1"
LWL 30-5"
Beam 11-0"
Draft 6-5"
Displacement 25,000 lbs
Ballast 9,250 lbs (outside) 750 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 898 sq ft (sloop) 941 sq ft (yawl)
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Some fiddly bits
Probably the most consuming was making the supports for the quarter boards. These need to follow the contour of the hull while maintaining a vertical outside profile in a straight line along each side of the aft deck back to the transom. Subsequently, I noticed from some photographs taken in JBs workshop that I had been overly fussy making the cleats fit exactly to each strake, but the jobs done now and I have all these left over misfits!!
Next I made the mast step - which is comprised of three parts and fits between the front of the trunk and the mast bulkhead. Not sure if this is the ideal arrangement, but it seems to be a screwed in removable part, so there will be plenty of opportunity for redesign or fine tuning later on. At a minimum I will need to remove it so that I can cut the shoulder on the base of the mast to fit into the slot in the mast step.
You can see from the photo opposite that there remains a space underneath the mast step to the keelson - which seems to be as per the plans. However, I read on the glued lapstrake forum that some have allowed the step to sit directly on the keelson, following its contours.
I began making the sole next, which involved ripping up 14 lengths of US Redwood into 70mm by 12mm boards. Once I had these thicknessed and dimensioned, I began fitting these to the hull. Its not explicit in the plans as to how these should be fitted, so I am taking my time to work through a shape and design that will satisfy the inevitable scrutiny of crew as boredom sets in and they stare at their feet (and my soles craftsmanship!)
A more satisfying project was building the unit for managing the keel lift. This sits atop of the trunk cap and is made in two halves and then glued into one unit. I used a 2" Tufnol sheave running on a short length of bronze 3/8" bar. Use a keyhole drill and forstner bits I was able to cut out a recess to fit the sheave snugly. Here you can see the sheave sitting in one half on the bronze pin.
I reckon that I will attach this with large screws from underneath the trunk cap and some goo, rather than epoxy so that it can be a serviceable item.
So far the unit looks like this, but I may work it further on the sander to make it look less bulky and more elegant. I plan to install a 3" bronze cleat on the unit just aft of the sheave.
My next major task is to contour the rubbing strip, which is made from 50mm x 16mm sapele. JB suggests using the table saw with four different angled cuts and blade heights to rough out the profile and then finishing with a sander. I dont have so much confidence in my table saw skills and so will look to see what I can accomplish on the router table. Once I have this fitted, I can varnish the bright work and then paint the hulls interior.
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My new keel
So we took it back to my house and unwrapped it from its mold. The mold had charred somewhat, especially the centre board slot, but nonetheless it retained its shape extremely well. The 150 plus dry wall screws did their job and no lead leaked from any part of the mold - so that was quite satisfying.
Brendan managed to source a professional scales from a friendly neighbour who runs a weighing and calibration business - thanks Kevin - and we weighed it out of the mold - 326kg in total. So by deduction it seems my bathroom scales were reasonably accurate. When we measured the keel against the FSP drawings, it seems we did add the extras lead unnecessarily so now I have the challenge of cutting off a slice off the top of the keel...shouldnt be too difficult!
Bottom line - the keel looks to be fine with a few pock marks on top where the molten lead continued to bubble, but this will probably be removed when I slice off the top of the keel.
The lesson learned were
1) refine the tap so that the lead is directed down into the mold - the pressure at the tap is quite high, presumably due to the weight of molten lead and tended to splash around, so we had to reduce to the flow to a slower rate.
2) Mark the level on the mold to where the lead needs to be poured - we poured extra since the mold didnt look full enough and I couldnt be sure if some lead had just escaped or leaked underneath. 3) The lead looked to be somewhat discoloured - as if heated higher than necessary - not sure if that made any significant difference, but may have reduced the bubbling and gurgling of the lead when it was in the mold and possible lead to increased charring of the mold.
The mold could have possible managed one more pour, but since the first was deemed a success I consigned the mold to the role of fire kindling.
Finally, I now have the task to cut the top inch or so off the keel, please feel free to comment on the best tools for the job.
Design 2723 M42 in Transit
I snagged this image driving down the road last week in Maine. Its an M42 with the "standard" deckhouse.
Adventuress Design 1484
Adventuress was built by Norman H. Hodgdon, Jr. of Boothbay Harbor, Maine. She was penned by the talented Francis Kinney when he was with Sparkman & Stephens and launched in 1958. Construction is as typical: oak structure and single planked in mahogany. Fastenings are of Everdur.
The design is a descendant of the Gulf Stream 30 (design #1147), with a longer bow overhang and deeper draft.
Here are the plans.
Heres an article about the boat. Please double click for zoom.
LOA 30-1"
LWL 21-11"
Beam 8-1"
Draft 5-0"
Displacement 7,700 lbs
Ballast 3,000 lbs (outside) 200 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 399 sq ft
Master Cabin Bed
Im working on the bed in the master cabin, and I feel as if Im making some good progress.
The face frames for the drawers ( 12 drawers) is complete as is the panel foot board. I used plywood for the center partition on the bed so Id have a place to hang the drawer guide off of. I framed the mattress support out of 1 3/4" stock using pocket screws. While the bed is becoming a stout piece of furniture, everything about the bed is modular and able to be taken apart in relatively large pieces. I could probably dis-assemble the whole thing in about 1/2 of an hour.
The mattress support and bed rail are cantilever over the chest of drawers by about 4". This has proven to be a nice detail as it lets you get right against the bed while not having your toes hit the drawers. It just makes the room feel more comfortable. The cantilever also made the bed/drawers attachment much easier along with fabricating the radius. Because I now have wires in the head board, it would not be too difficult to incorporate some small LED lights in the cantilever to illuminate the drawers if the lighting needed to be improved to see into the drawers.
The outside rail for the bed finished out at 5" tall. I used pocket screws to assemble the two bent laminated pieces to the rail sections and Im extremely happy with how the joints look. Ignoring the difference in the grain, one would be hard pressed to see the joint itself. I used three pocket screws per joint, and I also applied a little glue to each piece. The bed rail is extremely rigid, and while one would have to be careful if it ever had to be removed, the piece would fit through either the engine room door, or the door to the head and into the guest cabin.
I held the bed rail down 3/4 " below the mattress support framing. Ive always figured on using an 8" foam mattress, but sitting on the rail, and looking at how other things are fitting together, I could probably get away with a 6" tall mattress.
I incorporated a book shelf of sorts into the head board, along with a place to have two LED reading lights. Instead of robbing the natural light from the port lights, we decided to not have a top shelf on the book case/headboard so light would have an easier time getting past the book case. I fabricated a fiddle to the base of the book case, and one rail across the front to hold in whatever gets put on the shelf. The reading lights, with their 3" base, will fit between the fiddle and the rail.
The reading lights were originally going to be installed on the hull liner above the book case shelf. I ordered some lights with a long flexible neck, and after putting them up on the liner, I felt that the looked like crap. I scrapped that design, and had to come up with a better location. Putting the lights on the head board would have made them too close to the pillow, so I built three mini columns for a place to install the lights. The mini columns turned into a support bracket for the book case rail, so this is how the book case came to be. I had to fix my screw up with the wire location, so I cut a dado in some stock, and made a wire chase that I screwed to the hull liner. The wood wire chases look OK, and was a much better alternative to removing the hull liner and pulling new wire.
Building of all the drawers that will reside in the master cabin is the next item on the to do list.
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Design 1738 S S40
This design was developed as a set of "stock plans" for series production in wood. Far East Yacht Builders of Newport Beach, California built a handful of these boats at a yard under their supervision in Japan between 1963-1965. The boats were constructed of wood.
Here are the plans.
LOA 39-11"
LWL 28-9"
Beam 10-0"
Draft 6-2"
Displacement 17,200 lbs
Ballast 7,000 lbs
Sail Area 690 sq ft
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Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival Part One
The 35th Annual Wooden Boat Festival at Port Townsend was, in a word, magnificent! I have been attending this festival for many years now. It was two years ago when I met Barrett Faneuf here, she invited my wife and I out for a sail aboard her Navigator "Yuko", and the rest is history. The festival seems to get a little bigger and a little better with each passing year, but this years festival took a quantum leap for me. Not only was it my first time as an exhibitor, but I had the honor of meeting people such as John Welsford, Howard Rice, Josh Colvin (editor of Small Craft Advisor magazine), Sam Devlin, and a surprising number of people currently building Welsfords designs.
But more on that later.
There is no way to compress all four days of the festival into one blog entry. Its going to take several. Lets start with the pre-festival setup.
Ellie, of course, wanted to look her best, so I spent the weekend prior to the festival getting her in "ship shape". I touched up the few scratches she had picked up from the barnacle encrusted rocky beach at Sucia, cleaned off the bits of dried seaweed from her most recent outing to a TSCA messabout at Bowman Bay and gave her mahogany seats a fresh coat of Seafin oil. We even bought her a pretty little bouquet of flowers for the show. Ellie is a tomboy, but she didnt seem to mind.
Thursday, the busy setup day before the start of the festival, finally arrived. We set out early because we had to tackle a bit of Seattles morning rush hour traffic, take a Washington State ferry, and cross a major drawbridge just to get there, then set up the boat, launch her at Boat Haven marina, travel over to Port Hudson marina, and report in all before noon.
Here is Ellie, gleaming aboard the Edmonds-Kingston Ferry.
For those of you not from around here, the Washington State Ferry system has the largest passenger and automobile ferry fleet in the U.S. and the third largest in the world based on number of vehicles carried - about 11 million vehicles per year.
After the ferry crossing, and wait for the Hood Canal bridge to close, we finally arrived at Boat Haven marina. At the boat launch was Peter Van Sickle with his Welsford Penguin "Tenacious". Peter, who trailered over from Idaho, completed his Penguin about two months ago. After launching our boats we headed for the festival at Port Hudson. Here I am admiring "Tenacious".
Upon arriving at Port Hudson, we were instructed to contact the Harbormaster on VHF radio for our slip assignments. Squeezing a couple hundred boats into Port Hudson in an orderly fashion is no easy task. More like a gigantic game of Tetris. Harbormaster Dan Evans of the schooner Adventuress did a remarkable job. What I didnt know was that they place all the larger yachts first. Because we arrived fairly early we were forced to sail under beautiful, near perfect conditions for several hours while awaiting our turn to enter the harbor. Feel sorry for us? Dont!
At last it was our turn to enter and we tied up at our assigned spot.
Here is a panorama of all of us shoehorned in snug and cozy like. Well done harbormaster!
At this point I had to make a quick side trip to check into our hotel, then hurry back for the reception. We were treated to a thank-you reception, complimentary drink, music and dancing at Bar Harbor (a large tent on the Western edge of the Festival where they serve beer, wine and have live music all day) that went on until after midnight.
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